Istanbul is on two continents. While most of its sights, historical landmarks and commercial areas are on the European side of the city, about one-third of its population lives across the Bosphorus Strait, on the Asian side. Istanbul is the most unique city I've visited and potentially my favorite. I found it to be so unlike anywhere else I'd ever been, from the stunning mosques to the lovely little glasses from which to sip your daily (or hourly, if you're anything like me) Turkish tea to the call to prayer broadcast throughout the city six times a day.  Istanbul also hosts an annual Tulip Festival, so expect to see some vivaciously vibrant flowers all over the place!

I found the people of Istanbul to be extremely welcoming overall. One of the most interesting conversations I engaged in was with a man selling scarves from a cart. My friend bought one and asked how much it was and he said, "It depends on the currency." We were carrying around lira (Turkish currency), but he told us he was happy to accept lira, euros, British pounds and even American dollars: "Money is money," he told us matter-of-factly. I was lucky enough to have four full days in this incredible city, made even better by the FANTASTIC hostel I was staying in (more on that below – seriously, it was my favorite hostel of all time and if I could permanently live there, I would in a heartbeat). Four days was a great amount of time because I was able to fit in *almost* everything I wanted to do, and was able to take a day to just chill, play cards with my friends and drink lots of tea (I told you) because this was midway through a month of constant travel and I needed a little chill time. Four days was just enough, but five days would be even better to make sure you experience everything Istanbul has to offer – which is a lot!

Things to Do

If you were stuck in a car and only drove through Istanbul without the chance to ever get out, your breath would still be taken away. The architecture alone is enough to make you literally gasp. But that's just the beginning... there are so many sights to see, deals to be bartered and aromas to smell (mmmmm) all around this city.

Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque is located in the Sultanahmet area of the city. While this gorgeous mosque is a historical site, it is also a currently working house of worship and will therefore close for 90 minutes five times per day for the call to prayer. There is no entrance fee, but to enter the mosque, you must take off your shoes. You can store them in free plastic bags distributed at the entrance. If you are a women, you must cover your head in the mosque with either a scarf or head covering of your own, or a borrowed head covering from the entrance (free). Again, keep in mind that this is a working mosque and you should make sure to be somewhat covered up: long pants for men, pants or long skirts/dresses for women. Just remember to be respectful as you admire the incredible architecture, detail and thousands of ceramic tiles decorating the structure. And be sure to walk by the Blue Mosque AND the Hagia Sophia at night when they are lit up!

Hagia Sophia

Another breathtaking piece of architecture, the Hagia Sophia is an Orthodox Cathedral converted into a mosque converted into a museum. The entrance fee is 40 lira  (approximately $14USD) and definitely worth it to see the beautiful artwork – and more incredible mosaic work – inside one of the most iconic landmarks of Istanbul and most famous buildings in Europe.

Grand Bazaar

My favorite spot! The Grand Bazaar is a bargain hunter's dream, and it's even fun for people who usually hate shopping (like me). If you come with a friend, either pick a spot to meet up in case you separate or plan to see each other again at the hostel later, because this place is enormous. It is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world: it takes over the better part of 61 streets with over 4,000 shops!! You can find everything you could possibly want here: scarves, jewelry, footwear, lamps, rugs, Turkish Delight in every flavor, tea – the list is literally 4,000 shops long. And almost every shop owner in the Bazaar is down to barter. Don't like the price he suggested on that necklace? Ask him for 60% of that, and don't act too interested (and don't show that you have that amount) – always be prepared to walk, because the seller will either let you have it for a price you name, or you can find the exact same thing a few shops down. Leave yourself a few hours to explore the Grand Bazaar and definitely don't skip it!

Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar)

This bazaar is located in the Eminönü section of the city, and the smells alone are enough to ensure a great visit to this covered market. It stretches on and on for streets, filled with – as its name may suggest – every spice you can imagine, along with tea, Turkish delight, caviar, cheese, dried fruit, sweets, candy, jams PLUS scarves, pashminas, leather bags and basically anything you need. The Spice Bazaar isn't just for tourists; you'll see locals among the stalls, too. It's worth checking out the side streets, too, where it may be easier to find a deal. 

Topkapi Palace

Another hugely popular Istanbul site, Topkapi Palace was home to sultans of the Ottoman empire and is now open for visitors to tour parts of the inside (though much of it is closed off to the public). I am going to be honest and admit that I did not go inside (we were very tired and didn't feel like paying the entrance fee – which is very low, 40 lira or $14USD), but we did walk all around the grounds, which were filled with what seemed to be endless rows of brightly colored tulips and even some cats hiding among the flowers! The gardens are definitely worth a look, and next time I visit I will be sure to go inside.

Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern is an ancient cistern – an underground water system – that lies beneath the city of Istanbul. It's a little bit spooky in a very tranquil and pretty way, and, for lack of a better description, it reminded me a bit of the Chamber of Secrets (where my Muggles at?). The entrance fee is only 10 lira, which is less then $7USD, so it is definitely worth a look – especially if you're visiting in the summer. It's cool and dark in the cistern to provide a break from the heat.

Boat to Asia

While you're in Istanbul, you MUST take a ferry over to the Asian side of the city – not only will you be able to say you've been to two continents in one trip, but you may even get to try a local treat, yogurt topped with powdered sugar and honey. It was so tasty, I ordered a second cup! I opted to take an actual tour boat to get all the information I could, and ended up having quite the interesting experience... our boat crashed into a stone wall! We had a fantastic tour guide named Fazil who kept everyone calm [Sidenote: Fazil took my friends and I out to dinner and to a few bars after the tour – the people of Istanbul are so friendly!]. We were never in danger, but it was a little bit scary until things got under control. We stopped in the middle of the Bosphorus to climb Maiden's Tower, a lighthouse right between Europe and Asia that has wonderful views. 

What to Eat

Obviously the most important section. I should really move this to the top of the page. There is such a wide range of delicious traditional Turkish food to try, whether you're a carnivore, vegetarian, sweet tooth or even a picky eater.

Kebab

Döner kebab is meat that is layered onto a huge vertical spit. It is heated by rotating over heat and cut off in thin slices to be wrapped with lettuce, tomato and onions in a warm flatbread or rested atop a bed of rice and salad on a platter. It's probably the most commonly found food in Istanbul... it's EVERYWHERE! You can get it in a sit-down restaurant, a takeaway window or a cart on the street.

Fresh fish sandwiches

Take a waterside stroll down by the Galata bridge and stop at one of many carts to order a cheap, filling and fresh fish sandwich. Some of these are prepared right on the fisherman's boats, tied up and bobbing on the water. You can also take a seat in one of the little restaurants under the bridge if your feet need a break.

Pide

If you're picky and can't find anything on a menu, pide is a safe – and super tasty – bet. It's kind of like Turkish pizza: flatbread folded into almost a boat shape, filled with cheese, meats and veggies. It's also a safe bet for vegetarians... I filled mine up with lots of cheese and peppers and it was cheap, filling and hearty.

Turkish tea & apple tea

I can't stress enough how delicious this stuff is. Turkish tea is a strong black tea – I liked mine with sugar cubes – that was especially helpful to wake me up in the morning (I hear their coffee is great and very strong as well – I was too in love with the tea to take a break from it) while apple tea is very sweet without any sugar, tasting almost like a hot apple juice. You can also find tons of other flavors in shops, restaurants and the Grand Bazaar – peach, kiwi, pomegranate, lemon... try them all! And the best part of the tea and coffee is that it's served in adorable tiny glasses with mini spoons to stir in sweetener.

Turkish Delight

I was mostly excited to try Turkish Delight because I used to watch this cartoon version of The Lion, The Witch & The Wardrobe when I was little and the White Witch gave Edmond some square, powdery-looking candy from a dish that she called Turkish paste. As it turns out, it's delicious in real life – subtly sweet, gelatinous cubes covered in powdered sugar, often containing nuts. Most places that sell Turkish Delight *cough*everywhere*cough* let you sample it (!!!), especially in the Grand Bazaar. My favorite flavors are pistachio, almond, rose and chocolate, but there are some crazy flavors out there, so be daring and taste them all! This is also a fun and easy-to-transport souvenir to bring back for family, friends and coworkers.

*FAVORITE: Doy Doy Restaurant*

My friend and I were very hungry by the time we reached our hostel, so we asked the front desk for a suggestion. The hostel owner walked us (more on our amazing hostel experience below) to his favorite place right nearby, Doy Doy Restaurant. We stuffed our faces with kebab and roasted eggplant stuffed with fragrant rice while talking to the owner, Moses. He was so friendly, telling us all about friends he's met from America at his restaurant over the years and even sitting down with us to talk about his city over some complimentary tea and dessert. We went to Doy Doy every single day of our stay, trying most things on the menu and eating ridiculously large naan literally bigger than our heads ("doy-doy" does mean "full," after all). On our last day, Moses gave us each our own Turkish tea cup and tiny spoon. Make sure to stop in, grab a bite to eat and say hi to Moses – you won't regret it!

Where to Stay

There are plenty of hotels and hostels throughout Istanbul, and where you stay will depend on where you want to spend more time. I opted to stay in the Sultanahmet area, near the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia and Topkapi Palace. It is the oldest part of Istanbul and has a rich cultural feel to it. If you want more of a modern atmosphere where you can more easily go out to bars and clubs, you may consider the Taksim or Galata areas.

I need to give a special shoutout to the best hostel I've ever stayed at (and I've stayed at a lot), The Agora Guesthouse. Dorm rooms (which include a female only option) range from $14-$20/night. The location is ideal for exploring Old City and is a short walk or tram ride from anywhere you could wish to go. The entire staff is warm, hospitable and accommodating – they felt like our friends by the time we left! The bathrooms are very modern and spotlessly clean, there is AC and the free breakfast is a delicious way to taste traditional Turkish morning fare – fresh bread, yogurt with cherry and apricot toppings, juicy tomatoes and cucumbers, a selection of sliced meats and cheeses, hardboiled eggs, cereals and pastries. Breakfast is served in the upstairs common room, which has free wifi, a few computers and lots of tables, chairs and couches to relax and make new friends. The best part? 24/7 Turkish tea and apple tea, perfect for sipping on the outdoor terrace that overlooks the Bosphorus. For most of the chill day mentioned about, my friend and I played cards and drank apple tea in Europe while looking out the window through the rain to see Asia across the river. I mean, come on.

Before You Go

Turkey recently changed their visa restrictions, meaning that many countries now need to obtain a visa prior to entering the country. It is recommended that you apply for an e-visa at least 48 hours before you plan to arrive in Turkey, and if you apply for the e-visa in advance, it's only $20 (that's from the USA, it differs depending on where you're coming from).

Transfer currency into lira. As mentioned above, some vendors accept euros and other currencies, but lira is accepted everywhere so I found it much easier to just work with that. Right now, $1 (USD) = 2.91 lira. You can also take money out from ATMs, but beware of service charges. Also make sure to hit the right buttons... my friend meant to take out 100 lira and accidentally took out 10,000!

Turkey is a predominantly Muslim country, and therefore there are cultural elements to take note of and respect. When entering a house of worship, women should cover their heads with a scarf. Istanbul is a modern metropolis, and while most local women wear whatever current trend you're wearing right now, as a visitor I tried to be conscious of not showing too much skin – no shorts, crop tops or skimpy tank tops – just to err on the side of caution and not draw too much attention to myself as a tourist. You will hear a call to prayer six times per day across the city, which I found it to be beautiful and uplifting to know that so many people were coming together every time I heard it.

Precautions

Unfortunately, the world we live in is far from perfect. Because of this, it is important that you gauge current political climates before visiting this (or any) city. Istanbul was the target of a terrorist bombing in January 2016 and while many museums and other areas are equipped with security scanners, many of the historic landmarks and mosques are not.

If you are a woman traveling by yourself, exercise extra caution in Istanbul. While of course we ladies must always be careful while on our own (at least until we take down the patriarchy... where my girls at?), the culture is different there and men are sometimes known to follow women or give them intimidating looks. Keep to crowded areas and let someone know where you're going. In some cases, you may need to firmly tell someone to leave you alone or approach a local police officer. When I arrived in Istanbul, I was with one female friend for the first day. We took the tram from the airport into Sultanahmet in the middle of the day, and a man behind me kept pinching me. There were no police around and most of our fellow passengers were men, so I chose not to say anything and pretend to ignore it, but I felt very uncomfortable and vulnerable. That was the worst experience I had in Istanbul and, from what I've learned from conversations with other friends who has visited, not a typical one. (I would recommend seeing if your hotel or hostel can set you up with an airport shuttle, as Agora Guesthouse set up for us when we left.) For the day that my friend and I explored together, we did received a lot of attention and catcalls, but none felt threatening or uncomfortable. This pretty much completely stopped on our second day, when a male friend met up with us and toured around with us for the remained of our visit. None of this is to scare you or to spread negativity about this spectacular city (as I said, it may be my very favorite one), it is just to make you aware of my personal experiences and to remind you to always keep your wits about you, in Istanbul and everywhere.