Friendly (and French) Neighbors to the North 

Canada has contributed some wonderful things to the world. Peanut butter, Trivial Pursuit, Shania Twain, poutine, Degrassi... heck, I'll even thrown in Bieber since he's been dropping banger after banger in 2016. I had heard that Montreal has a very European feel and knew that it was a short trip from New York City, and in the last year I have had multiple friends visit and report back on how beautiful, clean, affordable – and delicious – the city is. A few months ago, my friend Amanda and I were reminiscing about our travels during our year studying abroad and decided we needed a quick weekend getaway, and neither of us had been to Canada... so we figured why not check it oot, eh?

Things to Do

Mont Royal – FREE

Mont (or Mount) Royal is a huge hill that rewards those brave enough to climb all the way to the top with the most astounding view of Montreal. Luckily, the day our Couchsurfing hosts led us up the hill, I was wearing sneakers (have Vans, will travel) and shorts, but I was sweating like I hadn't sweat in a very long time. The climb is not quite a hike, as there are various things to see on the way up: a large pond, a fountain and lots of people out enjoying the sunshine on blankets and under shady trees. It took us about 30 minutes to get through the park and up to the peak, but it was so worth it... look at that view! Mont Royal BONUS: if you're a Fitbit nerd like me, you'll definitely get your steps in here!

Old Montreal – FREE

If you love to wander around without much of a plan, head straight to Old Montreal. It's stunning and very reminiscent of Europe... I felt a Paris/Florence type of vibe. While you're there, pop into Notre-Dame Basilica (next on my list) or check out a ghost tour once the sun goes down to discover the spooky history of this beautiful part of town. There are tons of souvenir shops as well as mom-and-pop antique shops, homegoods-type shops and a few places that reminded me of Urban Outfitters because they sold fun trinkets and goofy objects that you would never need but would probably want. I even found a year-round Christmas shop, Noel Eternel! And while Old Montreal is very pretty during the day, it's FANTASTIC at night! The streets are alive with tourists and locals alike, open-air restaurants and terrace bars fill the air with music and laughter and most shops are open late.

Notre-Dame Basilica – $5

Confession time: I'm usually not super impressed by old churches. I've certainly seen some really beautiful ones and I always appreciate the time and detail it took to build them. I also respect that some people love historic, ornate churches and feel religious connections to them. They're just not my favorite thing to see while traveling. The Notre-Dame Basilica, however, was an exception. Two different friends stressed that no matter what, I must see the Basilica. One friend told me it "took [her] breath away." And guess what? It lived up to the hype! The Basilica requires a $5 entrance fee for patrons 18 and older and $4 fee for those 7 to 17. Children 6 and under get in for free. 

The Basilica's humongous organ has about 52 visible pipes, but is actually comprised of over 7,000! I walked in at the perfect time, during an organ concert. The organist was in the midst of a Sound of Music medley when I entered, but he went through music from Harry Potter and even Star Wars, which made the few hundred tourists inside laugh. As I was about to head out, one of the free Basilica tours (it offers tours in English and French) was just starting and the tour guide said it would take about 20 minutes, so I hopped into the group to learn more about the history of the church from way back in the day to more modern times – Celine Dion got married there! 

Les Boules Roses on St. Catherine Street/Gay Village – FREE

This is my favorite art installation I've ever seen! Les Boules Roses are thousands of  "pink balls" strung across rooftops stretching for blocks and blocks on Rue St. Catherine in the Gay Village. They're whimsical, fun and every Instagrammer's dream. Even better, the installation was created to support the local LGBT community, so it's not only aesthetically pleasing, but full of heart, too. Unfortunately, the balls are not a year-round sight to see – they only go up in the summer. But if you happen to be there from April through August, you must stop and see them!

Jean-Talon Market – FREE

One of the oldest open-air markets in Montreal, Marché Jean-Talon is located right in Little Italy and is packed to the brim with fresh fruit, veggies, fish, meat, honey, oil, pastries, bread, cheese and lots of maple treats! I sampled a bunch of different fruits that were on display: peaches, plums, kiwi, cantaloupe... even wild blueberries and ground cherries (which I ended up buying because they were so fresh and delicious). I also met a vendor who lived in Manhattan for six years and gave me a spoonful of spicy peanut butter to try – so weird, but so good. 

Old Montreal Ghost Tour – $23.50/$19.50

Montreal may be a modern cosmopolitan, but some say it has a dark past and hidden secrets. Find out what you believe for yourself with a ghost walk! There are numerous companies that offer walking ghost tours, but I chose Fantômes Montréal Ghosts. Tickets are $23.50 for adults or $19.50 for students ($15 for kids 12-17). The tours are offered in both English and French. I waited to get my ticket until about two and a half hours before the tour was due to start and was luckily still about to join – it was a blast! Our guide Gregoire dressed in old-fashioned clothing and led us all around Old Montreal, stopping often to point out building with ghostly stories attached to them. Anyone who is a fan of the paranormal – and even skeptics – would enjoy this tour, plus it leaves you in a perfect place to grab drinks or a late dinner.

What/Where to Eat

POUTINE! (obviously)

Poutine is a Montreal specialty, and you'll understand why with just one bite! It's fries covered in gravy and cheese curds (the squeakier, the better!), but there are a ton of specialty options, too. You can get poutine covered in smoked meat (another Montreal favorite), chicken, sausage, all sorts of craziness – some places even have vegan options (more on that in a moment)! There is poutine all over the city, but I arrived on a Thursday night and didn't venture out for dinner until around 9:00, so I hit up a famous 24-hour spot called La Banquise. I ordered a classic poutine with a cream soda (Fanta makes cream soda? I love you, Canada). The line was out the door and had two sides: eat-in and take-out. I opted to eat there to experience poutine fresh out of the kitchen and check out the atmosphere of the place. Even though the line was long, it only took about 10 minutes to get a table, and I was lucky to be seated on the back patio. I befriended two American students next to me; they complained when "Hollaback Girl" played twice in a row, I laughed at their annoyance and we chatted for the rest of our meals. La Banquise was packed with young people and is a popular post-night-out spot on weekends. It was lively and fun, the poutine was so satisfying and my waitress was really nice. The only complaint I have is that the inside is not air-conditioned. Amanda and I went back on Saturday and tried to sit inside, but it was way too hot, so we got takeout and ate in La Fontaine Park, which is right around the corner. Amanda ordered the vegan sauce; I tried it and it was a very good imitation of the real gravy. I honestly probably wouldn't even know the difference if you served that to me instead!

Montreal Bagels

I'm not picky with my bagels because I've met very few bagels I didn't like. When people rave about how New York bagels are the best in the world, I nod along, but I grew up with equally yummy bagels from a little store in Dresher, Pennsylvania. Panera bagels ain't too shabby, either. So when I heard that Montreal bagels are their own breed (they're supposed to be smaller, denser, cooked in a wood-fired over and – most interesting to me – boiled in honey-infused water to make them sweeter), I was excited to see what the hype was about. Fairmount Bagel and St. Viateur, while certainly not the only options, are the two most well-known bagels shops, and there is a constant debate over whose are better. I love a good food war (it's a regular occurrence for my family to get cheesesteaks from both Pat's and Geno's and take alternating bites to decide which reigns supreme), and the only way to decide was to get a bagel from each. I was told by the person who served me that the basic flavor is not plain but sesame, so I hit Fairmount Bagel first. My bagel was served hot and I thought the size was comparable to a normal bagel. It was slightly sweeter, but I'd still consider it a fairly savory breakfast option. It was really good, and I struggled to save some to compare with St. Viateur as I walked the few blocks over. I inhaled most of it in about three minutes. St. Viateur was also really good: the outside was a bit crispier, which I love, and the flavor itself was about the same. But overall, Fairmount won me over because the inside was so dense and doughy. I devoured both before realizing that other people had cream cheese or smoked salmon on theirs... but I would order them plain again since they were so warm and chewy!

Tommy

If you're looking for a lovely spot to sit for a coffee and chocolate croissant (or a cornetto, which was basically a cronut filled with Nutella a.k.a. heaven on Earth), Tommy is absolutely gorgeous! Amanda and I were the only ones in the shop when we arrived, and the service was phenomenal – everyone working was SO nice and friendly. Honestly, if I had stayed longer I probably would have gone back in an attempt to be their friend. Besides that, the interior is set up on three levels, with bright white paint and greens dangling from the ceiling. Amanda ordered an iced latte and I sipped on an iced matcha, which I sweetened myself with simple syrup. Tommy is perfectly located right near the Notre-Dame Basilica, so it's a perfect spot to prep for a big day of exploring Old Montreal, or to pop in when you need an afternoon pick-me-up. 

Kem Coba 

I visited Montreal in August, so it was very warm the entire weekend... perfect ice cream weather! Kem Coba serves up unique flavors of both ice creams and sorbets. They usually have a chai tea flavor which sounds like my dream, but alas, it was not there when I stopped in. Instead, I got salted butter (beurre salé) flavor on a cone – very similar to salted caramel, rich, sweet with a salty kick and totally delicious. Another ice cream shop known for their soft serve, dips/toppings and pastry cones is Le Diperie. Unfortunately, I ran out of time (and ate too much) to try it, but I stuck my head in and loved the design of the place.

Drogheria Fine

I am a big fan of all pasta, but especially gnocchi, and especially pasta served in a Chinese takeout-style carton. So imagine my luck when I was sitting outside Kem Coba and looked up to find a food tour group stop two doors down at Drogheria Fine, a tiny, clean hole-in-the-wall which I had previously walked right past. I heard the tour guide tell the group that the owner serves only gnocchi and only in his mom's tomato sauce. Everyone in the group was handed steaming cartons of gnocchi, thick red sauce and a sprinkle of cheese... all for $5 ($1 for a second sprinkle of cheese, but the owner told me too much cheese ruins the flavor, which is why he charges for extra)! I was too stuffed from eating two bagels and an ice cream cone, but I made sure to go back and it did not disappoint! The owner was so friendly and told me a bit about the shop and how his mom created her beloved sauce, and the carton of pasta was hot, rich, tangy and just what I needed on a rainy afternoon before trekking to the airport.

Café Chat L'heureux

Have you ever been to a cat café? If not, you are missing out on a PAWsome experience (sorry). There were actually two cat cafes that I saw in Montreal (and there may be more). I planned to visit Café des Chats on Rue St. Denis by my hotel, but when I walked in on Friday afternoon, all the cats were sleeping except for one, whose attention was being hogged by a 4-year-old boy. Not wanting to upset his parents when I inevitably planned to lure the cat away from him, Amanda and I ended our Saturday night at Café Chat L'Heureux (Happy Cat Cafe). We arrived around 8:00pm and stayed until it closed at 10:00. The menu was vegetarian with multiple vegan options. Amanda opted for a sandwich while I, still full from my second helping of poutine, sipped on a hot chocolate and nibbled on some lemon paw-shaped marshmallows. The cats were awake and most were playful, letting us pet them and taunt them with toys that they pounced on. Little brochures on all of the tables listed all of the cats by name with descriptions of their personalities type and backstories. The best part of the evening was when the manager brought some treats into the room and the cats performed some tricks: spinning in a circle, climbing onto his shoulder – one even let him put a lion hat on it! It's a PURRfect way to end a long day of exploring if you're FELINE tired (sorry again).

Jardin Nelson

I had some time to kill before my ghost tour on Friday, so I joined the long line wrapping down the alley and across the front of Jardin Nelson, a really pretty restaurant on the festive Place Jacques-Cartier in Old Montreal with a beautiful back patio complete with flowers, fairy lights and a live jazz band. Most tables around me had pitchers of all sorts of sangrias, even a blue one! The food was good, but seemed overpriced. I ordered a French onion soup and an apple cinnamon maple crepe with cheddar cheese. The soup was yummy, the crepe was fine but left something to be desired. There was a lobster salad on the menu which sounded and looked amazing, but I didn't feel like dropping $25 on one meal. I would still recommend Jardin Nelson for the atmosphere, especially if you are by yourself because you can just enjoy the music and the lovely decor. Oh – and this place gets bonus points for an extremely handsome waiter who was throwing off major Dave Franco vibes.

Where to Stay

Hotel Kutuma

I am a big fan of Airbnb, and even hostels on longer-term trips when I know I'll need to budget. I've never stayed in a hotel on one of my trips because they usually are just not wallet-friendly. However, I arrived to Montreal on a Thursday night and my friend didn't join me until Saturday morning, so I had two nights alone and I was unfamiliar with the city. We had planned to Couchsurf on Saturday, which is free, so I decided to treat myself and go for a cheap hotel for the first two nights. After a bit of research, I learned that boutique hotels are popular in Montreal, and I found an African-themed one on Rue St. Denis (which has a ton of restaurants, cafés and shops) called Hotel Kutuma. I was pretty pumped about it because I saw that the beds are leopard print and the rooms looked wayyyy fancier than anything I normally stay in. There is even an Ethiopian restaurant beneath the hotel called Nil Bleu, or Blue Nile.

I booked through Expedia and made A DIRE, DUMB, ROOKIE MISTAKE: I booked the wrong dates! Expedia said it was nonrefundable, so I had spent about $380 for a week later than I was actually going to be in the nation of Canada. Important rule of travel: double-check, triple-check, quadruple-check your itinerary, and if you have any doubts, check again. Thankfully, another important rule of travel is to attempt to reach out and fix things if possible. I was able to call the hotel on my US phone from my bed in Philadelphia to talk to a manager. He took pity on me and switched the dates for me at no charge. When I arrived, however, the computer didn't reflect those changes and it was almost a disaster, but they had one room left and put me in there. I ate my ground cherries, may or may not have had a solo dance party to a Celine Dion/Barenaked Ladies/Carly Rae Jepsen playlist (I totally did) and switched between the Olympics and Quand Harry Recontre Sally, happy as a clam on the leopard print sheets. I loved Hotel Kutuma and would definitely stay there again and recommend it to anyone visiting for a weekend!

Before You Go

Basics

You need a passport to visit Canada, whether you are flying, taking a train or driving. If you have a student ID, bring that too – I used mine for a discount on the ghost tour! Canadian currency is the Canadian dollar which, at the moment, is a tad weaker than the American dollar, making Canada the only place I've ever traveled that gave me more bang for my buck.

Getting Around

Public transportation is GREAT in Montreal! My research told me that cabs from the airport cost about $40, and Uber is not allowed to pick up from the airport. Instead, I bought a 24-hour metro and bus pass for $10 and took the 747 bus from the airport into the city center, and I bought a weekend pass (good from 4:00pm Friday through 5:00am Monday) for $13.75. I did not use Uber or hail a cab all weekend – the metro was clean and efficient and the buses were on time and easy to navigate. I definitely recommend downloading the free app CityMapper before you go – it is a lifesaver! You can just plug in where you need to go and it tells you exactly which route to take to get there. 

Parlez-Vous Anglais?

The primary language of Quebec (the province in which Montreal is located) is French, but if you're not bilingual, fear not. Every person I met in Montreal spoke fluent English as well. When I visit a country with a primary language different from my own, I try to at least made an effort. It's important to always be respectful of the country, its people and its customs, and I think that assuming up front that someone you meet will speak English could come across as rude (even if you don't mean it to). I usually ask in French whether a person speaks English. The way to ask, "Do you speak English?" is "Parlez-vous anglais?" Either type that into Google Translate and hit the little speaker button to hear how to pronounce it, or read my attempt to spell it phonetically: "Parlay voo ang-glay?" Sidenote: nothing feels classier than being referred to as "madame."